Eastern Sierra Trip Proposal Update

Proposed PATC Trip to Eastern Sierra for Summer 2006

Leader: Ross Hess

Destination

Our destination is the East Face of Mount Whitney, and time permitting, the South Face of Mount Russell. Both of these mountains are located in the eastern portion of the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. Our approach to them will be via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, which is located in the Inyo National Forest. Most of our travel will be in a designated wilderness area, albeit a heavily visited one. This area is also part of the Mount Whitney Zone, which entails other regulations. Adjacent federal lands include Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

Objective

The primary objective of this trip is to reach the summit of Mount Whitney via routes that require technical rock climbing (fifth class routes). While there are many routes to the summit that do not require technical climbing skills, such as the very heavily trod Mount Whitney Trail, those routes will not be the focus of this trip. With this objective in mind, climbers will hold their own safety, as well as the safety of other party members, in the highest regards. It is also hoped that participants will enjoy this beautiful area and one another during the trip.

A secondary objective is to reach the summit of Mount Russell, which is proximate to Mount Whitney. There are also many technical climbing routes to the two summits of Mount Russell.

As time permits, we may travel to other outdoor destinations in the Eastern Sierra. This will be a tertiary objective, and would only be possible upon our departure from the Mount Whitney Zone. Some possible locations are Mono Lake, Devil’s Postpile, the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, and Death Valley.

Style

We will travel and climb in an environmentally sensitive style, following Leave No Trace guidelines.

While in the Mount Whitney Zone, we will obey USFS regulations. Examples of compliance include using approved bear canisters for storing our food, not starting campfires, and packing out all of our waste. Using supplies provided by the USFS, we will also pack out our feces. While this is not required by the USFS, it is strongly recommended, and will help to minimize our impact on a sensitive area.

When climbing, we will climb cleanly. We will not place any permanent pieces of protection. We will also avoid leaving any gear on the rock, attempting to balance our safety with LNT ethics.

Logistics

We plan to depart Washington, DC, on the morning of July 22, and arrive at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) later that morning. All participants will take the same flight, though the exact flight has yet to be determined. A time will be set for purchasing these tickets, and each participant will purchase his or her own ticket.

At LAX, we will rent one or two vehicles, depending upon the needs of the group. These should be reserved in advance of our arrival. The participants will evenly split the cost of this transportation.

The group will then drive to an outdoor retailer in Los Angeles, such as REI or Adventure16, to purchase any needed supplies. At a minimum, we will need to purchase fuel for our stoves.

We will then drive to the town of Lone Pine. From Los Angeles, we will take the 405 to the 5. From the 5, we will take CA-14 to US-395. We will stop at the ranger’s station in Lone Pine. Driving time from Los Angeles to Lone Pine will be approximately four to five hours on a Saturday.

At the ranger’s station, we will exchange our reservations for permits. We should do this before the station closes for the day. We may be able to secure these permits after-hours, but this assumes that the administrative process will continue to flow smoothly. It would also preclude us from speaking with the rangers who may have advice about current conditions. In the event of a problem, our entry would be delayed the next day. For these reasons, we should attempt to secure our permits before the station closes for the day on Saturday.

We will then drive up to Whitney Portal (8,365’), and spend the night in one or two campground areas. We will reserve these campgrounds in advance. Their cost should be minimal, and will be shared evenly by all participants. Alternate sleeping arrangements will not be possible. Sleeping at this altitude will aid our acclimatization.

The next day, Sunday, July 23, we will enter the Mount Whitney Zone. We will hike to Iceberg Lake (12,600’), and set our basecamp. Along the way, we will pass Lower Boy Scout Lake and Upper Boy Scout Lake. Our basecamp will be directly below the East Face of Mount Whitney, and provide quick access to climbing routes. There will likely be other parties at the basecamp.

On Monday, July 24, we will begin climbing towards the summit of Mount Whitney (14,491’). Other adjacent sub-peaks of the massif include Keelers Needle, Crooks Peak (Day Needle), Third Needle, and Aiguille Extra. Routes and climbing teams will be determined by members of the group. With six members, we will likely climb in two groups of three, or in three groups of two. Other parties may have the same routes in mind. Climbing from the Iceberg Lake basecamp will likely continue through Tuesday, July 25, or Wednesday, July 26.

On or around Thursday, July 27, we will break our basecamp at Iceberg Lake. We will descend to Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300’), and set a new basecamp. This may be a day of rest, or may involve climbing.

On or around Friday, July 28, we will begin climbing towards the summit of Mount Russell (14,088’). The summit of Mount Russell will afford great views of our previous location. Again, routes and climbing teams will be determined by members of the group.

As time permits, we may venture to other outdoor areas in the Eastern Sierra.

No later than the morning of Saturday, July 29, we will descend to our vehicles at Whitney Portal. We will then drive down to Lone Pine, and use the local amenities. We will then drive down to LAX, and return to Washington, DC.

Certain participants may wish to depart later than this time. Any exceptions should be discussed prior to the beginning of the trip. At least one rental vehicle will return to LAX no later than Saturday, July 29. Activities beyond that period of time will not be considered to be part of the trip.

Expenses

Individual expenses include, but are not limited to: the flight from Washington, DC, to LAX; food; gear; amenities

Divided expenses include, but are not limited to: permits; rental car fees; car fuel; campsite fees; lodging fees (if incurred)

Requirements

All participants must agree, in principle, to this trip proposal. It is important that we share the same expectations for this trip in order for it to be a safe and enjoyable one.

Each participant must be a member of the Potomac Mountain Club, and have signed the PMC release form.

Each participant must be in generally good physical shape. Each member must also possess a degree of technical climbing, mountaineering, and first-aid competency that will ensure their safety, as well as the safety of their climbing partners. Each participant must also possess gear required for a safe trip.

A few days before the trip, all members will meet for a gear check.

During the weeks preceding the trip, there will be a number of training sessions. This will afford the trip members ample time to become familiar with each other before the trip. These will be open to any PMC members.

Gear

The following is a list of gear recommended for the trip, but is not meant to be exhaustive:

Clothing

• Synthetic underwear, tops and bottoms
• Insulation, such as fleece, tops and bottoms
• Rain gear, such as GoreTex, tops and bottoms
• Hat and gloves
• Climbing shirt and pants
• Mountaineering boots
• Climbing shoes and/or approach shoes

Personal gear

• Large-volume backpack
• Climbing pack
• Sleeping bag and pad
• Tent
• Bear canister
• Food
• Stove and cookware
• Sun glasses
• Head lamp
• Map and compass
• Trekking poles
• Water purifier and bottles
• Toiletries
• Camera

Climbing gear

• Ropes; double/half preferred
• Rack of protection, slings, carabiners
• Belay device
• Helmet
• Harness

Routes

The following are just a few possible routes for the trip. There are many other established routes, most of which are more difficult than those listed here. Also, the grades listed below vary depending upon the rating source and route variation.

Mount Whitney

• East Buttress, III, 5.6-5.7
• East Face, III, 5.4-5.8
• The Great Book, IV, 5.9
• Direct East Face, V, 5.9, A3 or 5.10d
• Mountaineers Route, Class 3

Mount Russell

• Fishhook Arete, III, 5.8
• Southeast Face, Right Arete, III, 5.10
• Southeast Face, Left Arete, III, 5.8
• Mithral Dihedral, III, 5.10b
• East Ridge, Class 3
• South Face, Right Side, Class 3

Any participants intending to bivy along a route should discuss this prior to the trip.

Hazards

Every participant should be reasonably prepared for the hazards encountered in mountaineering. This proposal will not attempt to discuss every possible hazard, or means of preparing for them; however, it will list a few that are salient for this trip.

• Weather: The weather is often calm and pleasant in the Sierras, but difficult weather is possible. This includes hot days, cold nights, and thunderstorms. Snow and hail are possible, but less likely.
• Lightning: In the event of thunderstorms, lightning strikes on open rock are a real possibility.
• Sun: We will be much farther south than Washington, DC, as well as much higher above sea level. Sunburn is likely, and sunglasses are necessary.
• Altitude: Since we will be at elevations of approximately 8,500’ to 14,500’ above sea level, altitude will have an impact. At a minimum, it will likely cause us to think and move a bit more slowly than usual. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is fairly common. Its onset cannot be predicted or prevented, and the only simple cure is to descend to a lower elevation. At the extreme, high altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema (HAPE and HACE) are also possible, though the onset of these life-threatening conditions is rare at these elevations.
• Water: Since Iceberg Lake is a heavily used area, we should treat our water before drinking it. Giardia and other parasites may be present.
• Snow and Ice: Depending upon this winter’s snow accumulation, some snowfields may exist late into the season. We will monitor these conditions closely prior to our departure. They may require using ice axes and crampons.
• Animals: Bears, birds, marmots, and small animals may attempt to steal our food. To prevent this, and to comply with the law, we will use bear canisters. We will likely see brown bears at Whitney Portal, and should take caution to avoid confrontations. These bears are notoriously clever.
• Rockfall: In an alpine environment, every member must wear a helmet while climbing. We should avoid problematic areas, especially in the afternoon.
• Falling: While climbing in a remote, alpine environment, falling should be avoided.

Resources

The following texts are useful, but the list is not exhaustive.

The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails, Second Edition, R. J. Secor, The Mountaineers.

Mount Whitney: The Complete Trailhead-to-Summit Hiking Guide, Paul Richins, Jr., The Mountaineers.

High Sierra Climbing, Chris McNamara, Supertopo.

Closing

I sincerely hope that this trip will be successful for every participant. Thank you.

Ross Hess