Friday, March 31, 2006

2006 Club Directory COVER PREVIEW


This is the cover for the new directory due to be mailed out during the last week of April 2006 to the current members of the Club; we know what we are all about! . BTW the colors are a little funky but it will be in color in anyway: black and white.

Thursday, March 23, 2006

CARDEROCK WEDNESDAYS Begins April 5th

The wednesday after the time change is the day we can exhale..it is time to climb again.

NEW 2007 MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL NOTICE

NOTICE

2007 Membership Renewals due by February 15th, 2007

Renewals received after this deadline with be charged a $5 administration fee. THIS WILL APPLY TO CURRENT RENEWING MEMBERS ONLY.We don't know how else to get the LEAD OUT :)

We currently allow a ridiculous 4 1/2 month renewal window which is grossly counterproductive; 4 1/2 MONTHS for $15.

This holds up our projected budget based on the membership, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, delays the Newsletter and Club Directory Printing because we have no idea who is still a member.

PLEASE RENEW YOUR MEMBERSHIP IN A TIMELY FASHION!

Friday, March 17, 2006

Self Rescue Seminar

Hello Mountaineers (and Happy St. Patty’s Day)!

Ok…so I’ve heard a lot of talk about self rescue, belay escapes, leader
rescue, etc. So, for those of you who are dedicated to having the skills,
knowledge and experience to be able to get yourself down from EVERY
situation you can climb yourself into, I have set up a Self Rescue Seminar
with Earth Treks Climbing Centers. Since ETC did not have a seminar
scheduled at any of their locations this spring, they have agreed to hold a
private Self Rescue Seminar. The seminar will be held at the Rockville
climbing gym, is exclusively for members of the PATC – Mountaineering
Section only, and will be available for the price normally reserved for ETC
members. I have taken this seminar as well as other classes with ETC highly
recommend that you take advantage of this opportunity. I can’t think of a
better way for anyone to start off the season.

Details

Location: ETC Rockville
Dates: April 3, 10, 17, and 24 (Mondays in April)
Time: 6:30 – 10:00 pm
Cost: $180
Class Size: 4 min/12 max

To sign up for the class, contact Dave Hudson, Group Programming Director,
ETC at (410) 872-0060. The first 12 members to give Dave Hudson their
tuition are in the class. Participants are expected to be Potomac Mountain
Club members with up to memberships and signed PMC waivers. Here’s one for
Vince: be sure to renew your club memberships ASAP, since you must be a
member to attend the seminar and your memberships will be expiring in the
middle of the seminar. Participants are also expected to attend all four
classes since each class builds on the previous classes. No prior rescue
skill are required. Please have your tuition in to ETC by March 24th.

More Details

April 3: Belay Escapes
April 10: Rappel Rescues
April 17: Hauling Systems
April 24: Leader Rescue

Required Gear:
1 Cordalette (22’)
3 Pieces of 5-7mm cord (3’, 6’, and 9’ sections)
4-8 Locking Biners
1 Double Length Runner
Helmet
Harness
Climbing Shoes
Belay Device
Specialty Gear (Reverso, Gri-Gri, etc. that you want to incorporate into
your rescues)

Even More Details
For information on the class, check out the ETC website at
earthtreksclimbing.com, contact Dave Hudson, or email me at
jksandridge@hotmail.com.

Again, ETC has been teaching this seminar for years and does an awesome job.
Technical climbing ability is only one skill set in climbing. Your rescue
skills need to be at least as good as your technical skills in order to get
you, and your partner, back home safe (to give the slideshow)!

Since I’m stuck picking up drunks in Arlington County tonight, drink a green
beer for me!

Have fun and climb safe!

J

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Eastern Sierra Trip Proposal Update

Proposed PATC Trip to Eastern Sierra for Summer 2006

    Leader: Ross Hess

    Destination

    Our destination is the East Face of Mount Whitney, and time permitting, the South Face of Mount Russell. Both of these mountains are located in the eastern portion of the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. Our approach to them will be via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, which is located in the Inyo National Forest. Most of our travel will be in a designated wilderness area, albeit a heavily visited one. This area is also part of the Mount Whitney Zone, which entails other regulations. Adjacent federal lands include Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

    Objective

    The primary objective of this trip is to reach the summit of Mount Whitney via routes that require technical rock climbing (fifth class routes). While there are many routes to the summit that do not require technical climbing skills, such as the very heavily trod Mount Whitney Trail, those routes will not be the focus of this trip. With this objective in mind, climbers will hold their own safety, as well as the safety of other party members, in the highest regards. It is also hoped that participants will enjoy this beautiful area and one another during the trip.

    A secondary objective is to reach the summit of Mount Russell, which is proximate to Mount Whitney. There are also many technical climbing routes to the two summits of Mount Russell.

    As time permits, we may travel to other outdoor destinations in the Eastern Sierra. This will be a tertiary objective, and would only be possible upon our departure from the Mount Whitney Zone. Some possible locations are Mono Lake, Devil’s Postpile, the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, and Death Valley.

    Style

    We will travel and climb in an environmentally sensitive style, following Leave No Trace guidelines.

    While in the Mount Whitney Zone, we will obey USFS regulations. Examples of compliance include using approved bear canisters for storing our food, not starting campfires, and packing out all of our waste. Using supplies provided by the USFS, we will also pack out our feces. While this is not required by the USFS, it is strongly recommended, and will help to minimize our impact on a sensitive area.

    When climbing, we will climb cleanly. We will not place any permanent pieces of protection. We will also avoid leaving any gear on the rock, attempting to balance our safety with LNT ethics.

    Logistics

    We plan to depart Washington, DC, on the morning of July 22, and arrive at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) later that morning. All participants will take the same flight, though the exact flight has yet to be determined. A time will be set for purchasing these tickets, and each participant will purchase his or her own ticket.

    At LAX, we will rent one or two vehicles, depending upon the needs of the group. These should be reserved in advance of our arrival. The participants will evenly split the cost of this transportation.

    The group will then drive to an outdoor retailer in Los Angeles, such as REI or Adventure16, to purchase any needed supplies. At a minimum, we will need to purchase fuel for our stoves.

    We will then drive to the town of Lone Pine. From Los Angeles, we will take the 405 to the 5. From the 5, we will take CA-14 to US-395. We will stop at the ranger’s station in Lone Pine. Driving time from Los Angeles to Lone Pine will be approximately four to five hours on a Saturday.

    At the ranger’s station, we will exchange our reservations for permits. We should do this before the station closes for the day. We may be able to secure these permits after-hours, but this assumes that the administrative process will continue to flow smoothly. It would also preclude us from speaking with the rangers who may have advice about current conditions. In the event of a problem, our entry would be delayed the next day. For these reasons, we should attempt to secure our permits before the station closes for the day on Saturday.

    We will then drive up to Whitney Portal (8,365’), and spend the night in one or two campground areas. We will reserve these campgrounds in advance. Their cost should be minimal, and will be shared evenly by all participants. Alternate sleeping arrangements will not be possible. Sleeping at this altitude will aid our acclimatization.

    The next day, Sunday, July 23, we will enter the Mount Whitney Zone. We will hike to Iceberg Lake (12,600’), and set our basecamp. Along the way, we will pass Lower Boy Scout Lake and Upper Boy Scout Lake. Our basecamp will be directly below the East Face of Mount Whitney, and provide quick access to climbing routes. There will likely be other parties at the basecamp.

    On Monday, July 24, we will begin climbing towards the summit of Mount Whitney (14,491’). Other adjacent sub-peaks of the massif include Keelers Needle, Crooks Peak (Day Needle), Third Needle, and Aiguille Extra. Routes and climbing teams will be determined by members of the group. With six members, we will likely climb in two groups of three, or in three groups of two. Other parties may have the same routes in mind. Climbing from the Iceberg Lake basecamp will likely continue through Tuesday, July 25, or Wednesday, July 26.

    On or around Thursday, July 27, we will break our basecamp at Iceberg Lake. We will descend to Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300’), and set a new basecamp. This may be a day of rest, or may involve climbing.

    On or around Friday, July 28, we will begin climbing towards the summit of Mount Russell (14,088’). The summit of Mount Russell will afford great views of our previous location. Again, routes and climbing teams will be determined by members of the group.

    As time permits, we may venture to other outdoor areas in the Eastern Sierra.

    No later than the morning of Saturday, July 29, we will descend to our vehicles at Whitney Portal. We will then drive down to Lone Pine, and use the local amenities. We will then drive down to LAX, and return to Washington, DC.

    Certain participants may wish to depart later than this time. Any exceptions should be discussed prior to the beginning of the trip. At least one rental vehicle will return to LAX no later than Saturday, July 29. Activities beyond that period of time will not be considered to be part of the trip.

    Expenses

    Individual expenses include, but are not limited to: the flight from Washington, DC, to LAX; food; gear; amenities

    Divided expenses include, but are not limited to: permits; rental car fees; car fuel; campsite fees; lodging fees (if incurred)

    Requirements

    All participants must agree, in principle, to this trip proposal. It is important that we share the same expectations for this trip in order for it to be a safe and enjoyable one.

    Each participant must be a member of the Potomac Mountain Club, and have signed the PMC release form.

    Each participant must be in generally good physical shape. Each member must also possess a degree of technical climbing, mountaineering, and first-aid competency that will ensure their safety, as well as the safety of their climbing partners. Each participant must also possess gear required for a safe trip.

    A few days before the trip, all members will meet for a gear check.

    During the weeks preceding the trip, there will be a number of training sessions. This will afford the trip members ample time to become familiar with each other before the trip. These will be open to any PMC members.

    Gear

    The following is a list of gear recommended for the trip, but is not meant to be exhaustive:

    Clothing

  • Synthetic underwear, tops and bottoms
  • Insulation, such as fleece, tops and bottoms
  • Rain gear, such as GoreTex, tops and bottoms
  • Hat and gloves
  • Climbing shirt and pants
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Climbing shoes and/or approach shoes

    Personal gear

  • Large-volume backpack
  • Climbing pack
  • Sleeping bag and pad
  • Tent
  • Bear canister
  • Food
  • Stove and cookware
  • Sun glasses
  • Head lamp
  • Map and compass
  • Trekking poles
  • Water purifier and bottles
  • Toiletries
  • Camera

    Climbing gear

  • Ropes; double/half preferred
  • Rack of protection, slings, carabiners
  • Belay device
  • Helmet
  • Harness

    Routes

    The following are just a few possible routes for the trip. There are many other established routes, most of which are more difficult than those listed here. Also, the grades listed below vary depending upon the rating source and route variation.

    Mount Whitney

  • East Buttress, III, 5.6-5.7
  • East Face, III, 5.4-5.8
  • The Great Book, IV, 5.9
  • Direct East Face, V, 5.9, A3 or 5.10d
  • Mountaineers Route, Class 3

    Mount Russell

  • Fishhook Arete, III, 5.8
  • Southeast Face, Right Arete, III, 5.10
  • Southeast Face, Left Arete, III, 5.8
  • Mithral Dihedral, III, 5.10b
  • East Ridge, Class 3
  • South Face, Right Side, Class 3

    Any participants intending to bivy along a route should discuss this prior to the trip.

    Hazards

    Every participant should be reasonably prepared for the hazards encountered in mountaineering. This proposal will not attempt to discuss every possible hazard, or means of preparing for them; however, it will list a few that are salient for this trip.

  • Weather: The weather is often calm and pleasant in the Sierras, but difficult weather is possible. This includes hot days, cold nights, and thunderstorms. Snow and hail are possible, but less likely.
  • Lightning: In the event of thunderstorms, lightning strikes on open rock are a real possibility.
  • Sun: We will be much farther south than Washington, DC, as well as much higher above sea level. Sunburn is likely, and sunglasses are necessary.
  • Altitude: Since we will be at elevations of approximately 8,500’ to 14,500’ above sea level, altitude will have an impact. At a minimum, it will likely cause us to think and move a bit more slowly than usual. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is fairly common. Its onset cannot be predicted or prevented, and the only simple cure is to descend to a lower elevation. At the extreme, high altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema (HAPE and HACE) are also possible, though the onset of these life-threatening conditions is rare at these elevations.
  • Water: Since Iceberg Lake is a heavily used area, we should treat our water before drinking it. Giardia and other parasites may be present.
  • Snow and Ice: Depending upon this winter’s snow accumulation, some snowfields may exist late into the season. We will monitor these conditions closely prior to our departure. They may require using ice axes and crampons.
  • Animals: Bears, birds, marmots, and small animals may attempt to steal our food. To prevent this, and to comply with the law, we will use bear canisters. We will likely see brown bears at Whitney Portal, and should take caution to avoid confrontations. These bears are notoriously clever.
  • Rockfall: In an alpine environment, every member must wear a helmet while climbing. We should avoid problematic areas, especially in the afternoon.
  • Falling: While climbing in a remote, alpine environment, falling should be avoided.

    Resources

    The following texts are useful, but the list is not exhaustive.

    The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails, Second Edition, R. J. Secor, The Mountaineers.

    Mount Whitney: The Complete Trailhead-to-Summit Hiking Guide, Paul Richins, Jr., The Mountaineers.

    High Sierra Climbing, Chris McNamara, Supertopo.

    Closing

    I sincerely hope that this trip will be successful for every participant. Thank you.

Ross Hess

PATC Monthly Meeting in Vienna

I privileged to attend our parent organization, the PATC's monthly meeting in Vienna, last night and every 2nd Tuesday of the month.(same building, same room)

-The meeting covered many important access issues 2 of which impact the PMC.
-There were 28 attendees from as far as Annapolis and Fredricksburg.
-These meeting are tape recorded and transcribed to a permanent volume and then condensed for PATC newsletter.
-They give a monthly finance report that wasn't available this month.
-The PATC has 6508 members that does not include the PMC.
-The PATC website will undergo a front side and backside makeover. It was good that our webmaster was on hand to be included in a steering committee and teleconference this month.
-I discussed the possibility of having NEW members and renewals performed on-line on the PATC website. (MAYBE THAT WOULD GET EVERYONE TO SEND IN THEIR RENEWALS IF THEY HAVEN'T DONE SO ALREADY.)
THE LISTSERVER doesn't like attachments, so this is my 2nd try with the link below.

  • CRESCENT ROCKS Raven Rocks UPDATE: I me the District Manager of the Northern Virgina AT from Harper's Ferry to Lyndon: Chris Brunton from the Blackburn Center. We poured over the maps for the area we climbed at LAST SUNDAY and went over the history of the area and the current issues that affect access on Raven Rocks Road ( RT.601). There was a fire years ago, set by fun loving teens with beer who ruined access for everyone. The gate used to be further up the gravel road and 20-30 cars could fit there at some point but the trash and the fact that some young punk got himself killed by falling from the tower didn't help access much, so the gate was moved to where it is today. The tower is owned by MCI. The NO PARKING SIGNS were erected by WVDOT so they are the real McCoy. Furthermore, parking is possible there because someone ripped out the NO PARKING signs. He all but discourages parking there even though the approach from there is 1/2 mile. The official published access for the AT is on Route 7 which is a 2.5 hump to the crag; much like from the parking lot at Frankenstein to Arathusa Falls...YUK....whatever. I am going to contact MCI and see if the PMC couldn't rent the use of the KEY to the GATE for club trips. Fairfax high schools and a number of other organizations bus climbing parties to the gate in the summer for climbing classes while the bus driver drives around BFE for a few hours.
  • BULL RUN MOUNTAIN UPDATE: The dispute between the land owners and the PATC is nearly a done deal. When the smoke finally clears there will be access from the building/parking lot there at 66 (well sorta, you know by the Mill that burned down by more fun loving teens with beer) clear to route 50-a distance of 17 miles. SO, Bull run mountain will be accessible for climbing again. I have climbed there a number of time then there were access issues.
  • ANNAPOLIS ROCKS UPDATE: there is an issue described in the attached solution document which offers alternatives to smooth out the access trail to Annapolis rocks which goes briefly on private property. read link below http://www.patc.net/chapters/mtn_sect/pdf%20files/Annapolis%20Rocks%20Access.pdf
  • USBUDGETLANDSALES by the Bush Administration to subsidize rural schools, which were once funded by federal government offering a bonus to these schools for having military children attend, they phased that out and replaced it with timber sales; that industry is in decline so now Uncle Sam wants to sell off land to continue to fund these schools at the expense of recreational land. Very bad.
All in ALL, this meeting made me appreciate the people we have in the PATC and recognize the very important work they do for the climbers, hikers and the public altogether. check out the cabin rental system on the AT for use by PATC members, an even better reason to also have a membership in the PATC. They are aware of Shenandoah issue and the Great Falls issues.

Vincent Penoso

Monday, March 13, 2006

March Club Meeting Minutes

3/8/06

    1. Introductions
    1. Individual’s climbing updates since last meeting

    1. Black Diamond proposal – Dave Raboy

    1. Club Programs/Coordinators
    1. Jason Sandridge - Safety and training
    1. Duncan - aid climbing clinic
    2. Dave Raboy said open house for clinics as long as they are safe and fun clinics
    3. Equipment and Video Coordinator: Ozana Halik
      1. Got 2 transceivers and all club ropes back
      2. Can borrow a rope for a club trip – contact Ozana
      3. Can borrow gear for climbing including helmet, harness, ATC
      4. Open to ideas about gear for PMC to purchase

    1. Trip Reports
    1. Mt. Washington Ice Festival: Vincent Penoso. Talked about trip, participants Kim M., Mack Muir, John Smith, Emilio, Vincent
      1. Great introduction to the sport of ice climbing with many guides leading a variety of clinics for all skill levels; plenty of gear manufacturers reps attending allowing those interested to demo gear for the weekend!!!
    1. DAKS trip: Mitch Hyman & John Smith – great climbing but very cold weather

    1. Upcoming trips
    1. Peru – Dave Raboy trip leader; guide and in-country support provided by Adrian Ballinger of Alpen Glow (www.alpenglowexpeditions.com
      1. 5 climbers have committed to Peru expedition – still room for others interested
      2. option for non-guided or guided (2 have chosen guided option) ?
    1. March Mountain Madness: John Smith – trip leader
      1. Ski mountaineering, climbing mt. Washington; late winter social event; start of ski mountaineering
      2. still room at the Joe Dodge lodge
      3. 15 currently going
    2. Climbing camping trips: Big Devil Stairs trip – trip leader Chris Biow
    3. Eastern Sierra Nevada/Mt. Whitney – trip leader Ross Hess
      1. 1 week beginning July 22
      2. 6 people on same flight from BWI to LAX
      3. 8-10 pitch route on east face of Mt. Whitney

    1. Ozana Halik to design and order club T-shirts with PMC logo – finalizing design

    1. Coordinators needed:
    1. Events coordinator
    1. Conservation coordinator
    2. Publications coordinator

    1. New issues
    1. Request for PMC to contribute $500 to Pakistan Relief Effort
      1. General consensus is no because:
        1. Cannot be certain how the money will be spent
        2. There are many worthy charities closer to home
    1. Liability waiver
      1. inference that PATC can sue a club member for something that happened because of their conduct
      2. Kurt to evaluate language of waiver
      3. View of EXCOM – legal protection is sufficient
      4. Trip leaders should bring copies of waiver on each trip and ensure that all participants have signed the waiver
    2. Carderock Wednesdays to start after the time change – during second week in April; first session will be on Tuesday since monthly club meeting is that week
    3. Several trips to be planned to climb at Nelson Rocks this season
    4. April meeting: Dave Oster and Dave Green giving Aconcagua slide show; Ted’s wife, Julie giving frostbite seminar
    5. Send Vince Penoso any faded PMC stickers
    6. Seneca Rocks Work Day postponed until Oct. 7