Buzzard Rocks, May 21 TR

Saturday, May 28, 2005

We had a great trip to Buzzard Rocks on Sat. May 21, 2005. There were 14 members in attendence including:

Lee Jenkins, Kate Reid, Reed Bumgarner, Doug Halonen, Andy Yeagle, Nancy Haden, Patrick Morineli, Kurt Ferstl, Matt Haskins, Mary Smeby, Dave Raboy, Chris Biow, Taylor Terry, Eric, Others?

I also had my dogs Kato and Sasha with me since Brenda was in Colorado. They carried their own packs full of food, treats and water. They were amazingly well behaved.

We enjoyed the nice cool weather for the 45 minute approach to East Massanutten Mtn's ridge line above the cliffs. Once there we scambled down to the northern most section that includes a great easy lead (Three Amigo's) and a nice but runnout 5.8 slab. Dave setup "camp" here with those that wanted to get in either their 1st or just an easy lead. Kurt and I headed to the next section with several newbies that had never climbed outside before. I lead the classic Raising Arizona (5.7 ***) and set up a toprope that could be used on this route plus Failure to Communicate (5.7 **) just to the right. It was great fun for me to belay and watch the new folks play around on their first outside route! Kurt and I then both led Failure to Communicate before moving to the next section.

At the third section Kurt and I climbed with the new folks up until around 2 p.m. when he had to leave. We both led several routes and either had the newbies second while we belayed from the top since many of these routes are 110 to 130'. We climbed the following routes in this area (noted from North to South):

Pulp Friction - 5.10*** (5 bolts - take a few small cams for the top and bottom, one move wonder above last bolt, the rest felt 5.8ish).

Kimberly - 5.7R (2 bolts, take a few small cams/nuts but still runout, dirty).

Melungian Brotherhood - 5.8*** (7 bolts plus a few small cams for the top and bottom. Nice route!)

After Kurt left Matt, Kate, Mary, Andy and I took the trail south and then bushwacked to the bottom of Anonymous Flake *** (110' 5.9R, one bolt). This route is the area classic so I had to give it a go...

This is where things got interesting. The bottom 40' or so is runout with no gear at all, fortunately the climbing is about 5.6 and on a laid back slab with good friction. Once above this area there are a number of cracks and flakes to place gear up until you come accross the one and only bolt (well actually two right next to each other but one is a rusty antique). The next few moves are tricky and runout until you reach the huge flake for which the route is named.

Once at the flake I placed a solid #2 Wild Country Technical Friend (Red). I started to traverse to the right and was about 80' up trying to make a blind placement while underclinging and off balance with poor feet. I called to Matt to "Watch Me!" then bent down and tried to look under the flake. Well after 8 years leading Trad routes up to 5.9+ all over N. America I "finally" took my first leader fall! My left foot blew and the next thing I knew I was airborne! It happened so fast it's hard to believe how vivid the subsecond events were (and still are). I yelled something, probably jibberish and watched as I started to turn my back to the cliff, the next thing you know I'm on both feet without a scratch. The landing was very soft and flat footed, like you jumped of two stairs! It was a perfectly clean fall. If you are going to take a Trad leader fall then this is the way to do it...

Iv'e always heard that their are two types of Trad leaders, 1) those that have taken a leader fall and 2) those that are waiting to take one. I'm glad to get it out of the way with lessons learned and no damage!

Matt, my belayer (and first time outside and Trad belaying/seconding!) did everything right.He was anchored and got pulled into the cliff face but did not let go and only received a minor abrasion. Mucho Kudos buddy. I'll climb with you anywhere, anytime...

Fortunately the #2 Friend held! But I really had little doubts about it. It was a "bomber" placement and is now pretty much pasted in the crack and will take some tools and energy to remove it...

Well after all the exitement I rested a minute then finished the route with style...

Lee Jenkins
Vice Chair, Potomac Mouintain Club 2005
Colorado bound...

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